Procedure 01 · old parquet

From a tired floor to a new surface

Restoration is not just sanding. First you stop the movement, then you build an even sanding pattern, close the stable gaps and only then choose a LOBA lacquer or oil.

stabilise → sand → fill → finish → maintain

Standard parquet sandingThe official LOBA sequence for basic sanding.
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The decisive fork

Answer three questions before the first pass

01

Does the floor move?

Creaking, lifted elements and a hollow sound are dealt with before gap filling. Filler is not adhesive and will fall out of a moving gap.

Structural remediation or re-bonding with the chosen WAKOL system comes first.
02

Lacquer or oil?

Lacquer forms a closed, highly resistant film. Penetrating oil keeps the direct feel of the wood. HardwaxOil is the intermediate, film-forming oil-and-wax route.

Decide before the fine sanding, because colour and oil systems need a particularly even pass.
03

Is the wood unusual?

Tannins, oily exotic species, thermally modified wood and residues of an old treatment may require a different primer.

Check the LOBA list of wood species and make a sample on the actual surface.
The full protocol

Every step has proof that you may continue.

  1. 01

    Inspection and documentation

    Empty the room, photograph the damage, mark hollow or moving elements and check whether the black stains are only in the coating or deep in the wood. Measure the moisture of the wood and of the room. Stop the source of water before you touch the sander.

    checkpointThe wood is dry, the source of moisture is eliminated, moving elements are marked.
    no product in this step
  2. 02

    Stabilisation and local repairs

    Remove or re-bond debonded elements only after diagnosing the substrate. MS 262 is used here for a removed element on an accessible, cleaned and prepared substrate — it is not an injection resin for a hollow spot under existing parquet. Treat bitumen or old adhesive residue as a separate substrate. Replace missing pieces with matching wood; repair active cracks in the screed rather than covering them.

    checkpointNo element moves under load and there is no hollow response.
  3. 03

    Coarse levelling

    Start with the mildest grit that still removes the old coating and the unevenness effectively. On herringbone, work in controlled diagonal passes and then change direction. Work the edges and corners to the same visual result as the middle.

    checkpointThe old coating is removed, the floor is level, with no deep lengthwise furrows or burnt edges.
    no product in this step
  4. 04

    Medium sanding and thorough vacuuming

    The medium pass removes the coarse marks and produces the dust for the filler. The dust must be fine, clean and from the same wood; it must not contain lacquer, metal or dirt. Vacuum the whole floor and the gaps thoroughly.

    checkpointThe sanding pattern is even; in raking light no earlier scratches are visible.
    no product in this step
  5. 05

    Filling the stable gaps

    Mix EasyFill or VivaFill with fine sanding dust into a smooth, spreadable paste and fill the whole surface with a metal trowel. For old floors with sensitive residues or certain exotic species, Fugenkittlösung may be more suitable. Fill wider gaps in several passes.

    checkpointThe gaps are full, there are no thick ridges on the surface, the filler is completely dry.
  6. 06

    Fine sanding for the chosen system

    Once the filler has dried, make an even fine pass and match the edges to the middle. With colour and oil systems, every difference in pressure or grit shows up later. Vacuum at the end, then wipe the surface only if the chosen LOBA system explicitly requires it.

    checkpointNo swirl marks, no edge transitions, no filler clouds and no dust in the gaps.
    no product in this step
  7. 07

    Primer, or the direct oil route

    For a natural lacquered look use EasyPrime; for a warm, emphasised old floor, PrimaSeal Plus; for an oiled look under lacquer, 2K Intensive. According to the TDS, direct two-coat application of 2K InvisibleProtect is intended mainly for light-coloured wood that is rigidly or shear-resistantly bonded; in other cases choose a compatible primer. With oil, the primer is normally not a lacquer primer.

    checkpointThe product is compatible with the wood species and the next layer; a sample has been made.
  8. 08
  9. 09

    Curing and first care

    Do not cover the surface until the chosen system allows it. Fit felt pads to furniture, stop incoming dirt with a cleaning zone and postpone the first wet clean until full resistance is reached. Then choose the care that matches the surface: lacquer, InvisibleProtect, penetrating oil or HardwaxOil.

    checkpointThe user knows when they may walk on it, place furniture and rugs, and clean it for the first time.
System routes

Choose the result and stay inside the system.

Mistakes that show up too late

Five places to stop on purpose.

STOP 01

Filling a moving floor

The filler cracks or falls out. Eliminate the movement and the cause of debonding first.

STOP 02

Rushing the fine pass

A difference in grit between the middle and the edge shows up as a different shade once colour is applied.

STOP 03

Over-thick lacquer

More material does not mean more quality; it causes swelling, slow drying and film defects.

STOP 04

Oil left standing on the surface

The excess becomes sticky and uneven, and cures very slowly.

STOP 05

The wrong care

A glossy film on InvisibleProtect, or wax before a refresh, can permanently change the appearance and the adhesion.

Need help choosing a specific system?

Open the substrate selector or send photos and measurements. We don't choose products by the name of the task alone.

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